Saturday, September 26, 2020

Lamb Shank Gouvedge

Patience is vital when making Gouvedge – at least the way we make it. It takes time to prep and time to cook. So, if it’s Gouvedge you wish to serve this autumn and winter season, start planning now. 

We started planning weeks ago by ordering lamb shanks from our local source – Fox Trot Farm.

Now that it’s cooled-down a bit we forged ahead with our plan to make this heart-warming, tummy-satisfying dish - and - we're glad we did! 

Gouvedge ready to serve with plain yogurt and crusty bread!

Lamb Shank Gouvedge
Serves 6


4 meaty lamb shanks, trimmed of fat
Lamb broth (See Day 1 preparation for details)
1-6 oz. can tomato paste
1-15 oz. can diced tomatoes with the liquid, optional
1 lb. fresh green beans, end trimmed, cut into 2” pieces
1 large or 2 medium zucchini, cut into large chunks
1 large or 2 medium eggplants, cut into cubes
1 lb. okra, optional (If okra is large, cut it into smaller pieces)
2 medium red or orange peppers, seeds removed, and cut into chunks
1 large onion, sliced
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
A small bunch of Italian flat-leaf parsley, washed
2 Tbsp. olive oil

Note: Measure all - or some - of the following seasonings according to your taste: Dried oregano, salt, black pepper, paprika, Aleppo pepper, dash of cayenne pepper, ground coriander seeds, allspice, etc.

Day One Preparation:

Place the trimmed lamb shanks in a large pot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, skimming any residue from the surface during the cooking process. Reduce temperature to medium-low; place a cover, tilted, on the pot. Cook for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until the meat is tender enough to easily be removed from the bones. Periodically check the water level; do not let it all evaporate. Add more as needed. You should end up with at least 3 cups of broth.

While the lamb cooks, cut all of the vegetables as noted above.

Gouvedge ingredients lined up and (almost) ready to use.

Remove shanks from the liquid; place in a container, cover and refrigerate. 
Strain the liquid from the pot; discard any unwanted particles. Place strained broth in a bowl, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Cooked, cooled lamb shanks and chilled broth with layer of fat on top.

Special Note: Check the ends of the bones for what Dikranagerdsis call ,'dzoodz', or bone marrow. Scoop it from the open end of the bone and eat it up!

Bone marrow from lamb shank

Day Two Preparation:

Remove meat from the bones and cut lamb into bite-sized pieces. Place meat in a bowl.
Remove and discard the layer of fat from the surface of the chilled, gelatinous lamb broth.

Congealed lamb broth

Using a large pot, sauté the onions and peppers in a few Tbsp. olive oil over medium-high heat. Season with a sprinkle of salt and pepper as it cooks. 
Add the congealed broth.
Sautéed peppers, onions, garlic, and lamb broth

Add the tomato paste, stirring gently until paste is blended with the broth. Add lamb pieces.
Tomato paste and lamb pieces added

Add the prepared vegetables. Season with salt, pepper, and any combination of herbs and spices as listed, to suit your taste.

Vegetables, herbs and spices added

Cook, covered, on low heat, for about 45 min. to 1 hour. Stir occasionally, making sure the liquid hasn’t evaporated. Add water, if necessary.
Gouvedge ready to bake

Preheat the oven to 350°- 375° F (ovens vary). Lightly oil a 9” x 13” casserole dish. Evenly spread the lamb-vegetable mixture. Cover pan with foil and bake for 1 hour. Remove foil and bake an additional 45 minutes or until top begins to brown.

While gouvedge is baking, make rice or bulgur pilaf to serve as a side dish. A side of plain yogurt is always a welcome addition, too.

Crusty bread is required for dipping!

Saturday, September 19, 2020

‘Zoom Cooking’ with my Daughter and Chef Serge Madikians: Tabouleh and Ja’Jik, Serevan-Style!

For my birthday this year, my daughter Mandy and son-in-law Ron, presented me with a special gift – a ZOOM cooking class with Chef Serge Madikians, chef-owner of Serevan restaurant in Amenia, NY.

Since being together was out of the question, they felt this was the next best thing - cooking together, albeit, long distance.

Chef Serge and my family have met twice before, both times at his establishment – first, when Doug and I celebrated our 40th anniversary, and then last summer for my birthday.

Doug, Chef Serge, and me, August, 2017 (for our 40th Anniversary) at Serevan Restaurant, Amenia, NY

Dining at Serevan is like being in a close friend’s home – everyone is greeted-and-treated warmly. His meal preparations are utterly sublime and made with love. I appreciate how Serge incorporates fresh, local ingredients, and how he gives many of his dishes that special Armenian touch.

(Note: During the pandemic, Serevan is only offering take-out service and outdoor patio dining, weather permitting.)

When Mandy saw that Serge was offering cooking classes via Zoom, she signed us up right away. The recipes he demonstrated were 2 of his family’s favorites - Tabouleh and Ja’jik. Copies of these recipes, which you'll find below, were made available to participants in advance to make preparation quick and easy on the day of the class. 

A screen shot before class began with Chef Serge

Before and during the class Mandy and I texted each other and shared photos of what we were doing in our separate kitchens. It was such a lot of fun!

Chef Serge in action

As the class began, Serge gave the participants background information about the recipes, explained each ingredient, the tools needed, along with kitchen safety and knife skill tips – all while being professional, entertaining, and charming.

Thanks Serge, Mandy, and Ron for making this long-distance birthday extra-special!

On a separate note, in case you don’t already know about ‘The Immigrant Cookbook’, Serge is one of the contributing chefs! It can be ordered using the Amazon link below.

Disclaimer: If you order the book through this Amazon linkThe Armenian Kitchen will receive a small commission. 

Here are Chef Serge's delicious, light and refreshing recipes for Tabouleh and Ja'jik:

My version of Serevan's Tabouleh
Serevan’s Tabouleh

Serves 6


**½ lb. #1(fine) bulgur (about 1 ½ cups)

1 lb. Roma, Beefsteak or other juicy tomatoes, washed and diced to ¼-inch

¼ lb. Persian, Kirby, or European cucumbers, washed and diced to ¼-inch

7 oz. red onion (about 1 medium), diced to ¼-inch

¼ cup well-packed fresh, flat-leaf parsley and fine stems

¼ cup well-packed fresh cilantro and fine stems

¼ cup well-packed fresh mint leaves and fine stems

2 Tbsp. chives, finely cut

¼ cup light olive oil

3 Tbsp. Kosher salt or more to taste, divided

1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar, optional

2-3 Tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice, or more to taste

Dash cayenne, optional

Juice of 1 lime, optional

** Note: If you don’t have #1 (fine) bulgur, pulse the larger size bulgur in a food processor a few times to achieve a finer grind.


Place the bulgur in a large enough bowl to hold at least triple its size, and with enough room for mixing the salad comfortably.

Place the diced tomatoes and all of their juices on top of the bulgur. Sprinkle 1 Tbsp. of Kosher salt on top of the tomatoes. Do not mix.

Place the diced cucumbers and their liquid on top of the tomatoes; add another Tbsp. of the salt. Do not mix.

Add the diced onions to the bowl and sprinkle ½ Tbsp. of the salt. Pour the lemon juice, vinegar, lime juice, and cayenne, if using. Do not mix.

Put the bowl aside for 15 minutes without mixing.

After 15 minutes, add the herbs and olive oil and mix well.

Put the bowl aside for at least 10 minutes, or up to 30 minutes, so the bulgur can soften as it soaks up the juices and oil.

After the bulgur has softened, taste to see if any seasonings need adjusting. 

My preparation of Serevan's Ja'jik

Serevan’s Ja’jik (Armenian-Style Chilled Yogurt Soup)

Serves 6-8


2 lbs. cucumbers, peeled and deseeded (about 15 Persian, 15 small Kirby or 3 long European cucumbers)

4 cups plain whole milk yogurt or labneh (Note: Labneh will need to be diluted with milk or water to achieve soup consistency.)

¼ cup water

2 Tbsp. salt

2 cloves garlic

1 bulb shallot

¼ cup well-packed fresh cilantro leaves

¼ cup well-packed fresh mint leaves

¼ cup well-packed fresh dill

½ cup light olive oil

2 Tbsp. Kosher salt or more to taste

Juice of 1 lemon

Dash cayenne, optional

Juice of 1 lime, optional


Finely dice 1/3 of the peeled, deseeded cucumbers and store them in the refrigerator until ready to use.

Coarsely chop the remaining prepped cucumbers and set aside until ready to use.

Use the chiffonade method to cut all of the herbs. Set aside until ready to use.

Place half of the coarsely chopped cucumbers in a blender with ¼ cup water; blend well. With the blender running, add the remaining coarsely chopped cucumbers, shallots and garlic along with 1 ½ Tbsp. of the Kosher salt. Blend the mixture for at least 30-40 seconds, or until everything is well-blended.

Add the yogurt to a bowl large enough to hold double or triple its size. Add the puréed cucumber mixture. Using a whisk, blend well.

As you whisk, slowly drizzle in most of the olive oil and continue mixing until the oil is absorbed.

Take the diced cucumbers from the refrigerator and place in a separate bowl. To it, add the remaining 1 ½ Tbsp. salt, most of the herbs, lemon juice, and lime juice, if using. Toss well so everything is coated with the salt and juice.

Add the cucumber-herb mixture to the yogurt and puréed cucumber; mix well. Check for seasonings and adjust, if necessary.

To serve: Place ja’jik in individual bowls, add an ice cube, if desired. Garnish with some of the remaining herbs and a drizzle of olive oil.

Tuesday, September 15, 2020

We eat Armenian food all the time but we'll never forget eating in Armenia

Five years have zipped by since we visited Armenia and reveled in every conceivable style of Armenian food, feasting our way from soup to nuts with a delicious detour for basturma pizza. 

Every day began at our hotel with a buffet  of fresh fruit, cheeses, breads and meats. That's plural in spades, expressing variety as well as bounty. 

Just as our breakfast table reflected the diversity of Armenia's produce and dairy, Yerevan's restaurants reflect the diversity of Armenian cuisine. 

There were plenty of choices familiar to visitors like us with roots in Western Armenia (dolma, kufte, kebabs), and plenty of less-familiar treats (spas, khinkali, pelmeni) that are everyday fare in Haiastan. 

It was quite wonderful except for the occasional miscue you'd find in any city. The favorable exchange rate was an added treat: the bill for an evening-long banquet for five arrived with many zeroes that translated to about $50 U.S.

We flew home stuffed but certain we’d return for a second 
course before long. As we should have known, nothing about Armenians is ever certain. 
Puffy bread at Anteb
Puffy bread
at Anteb

First we got diverted by other travel over the next year or two. Then we put all excursions on hold after our exasperation with hurricanes prompted us to move from coastal Florida to inland South Carolina.

We were just getting settled when the people of Armenia startled the world by swiftly executing their glorious “velvet” revolution. We cheered their triumph but decided we’d wait to be certain the new order would remain orderly before we booked our next flight to Yerevan.

Unfortunately, we’ve since been deterred by events that have delivered continuing sadness to a people who’ve experienced more than their share. 


(Yogurt soup)
Turmoil in the Middle East has ushered in waves of refugees displaced from historic Armenian communities in Syria and Lebanon, while tiny Armenia’s economy and health care systems were already reeling from the COVID 19 crisis.

Now Azerbaijan has unleashed cross-border artillery and drone attacks while threatening to launch missiles at Armenia’s nuclear power plant. 

All we can do at this distance is offer compassion and support in every way except the one we’d like most. 

at Dolmama

Even when the virus veil lifts for most folks, I’m not sure how eager we’ll be to spend more than half a day airborne in an aluminum cocoon breathing recycled air.

Regardless of when or even whether we return, we have great memories and lots of photos that we’re happy to share. And of course, we’ve had a bit of practice making Armenian food at home, as well as making any food we eat Armenian. 

Basturma pizza,
In fact, Robyn’s making pizza for dinner tonight. I don't know what other toppings she has in store, but I'm certain there will be plenty of basturma.

Post script: When I'm wrong, I'm wrong. We've just finished dinner, and there was no basturma on my pizza. 

Soujuk pizza,
our house

I had to settle for Armenian sausage (soujuk). How could I possibly complain?

Saturday, September 12, 2020

Fresh from the Farm: American-raised Lamb for Armenian Lamb Recipes

Doug and I just got back from Fox Trot Farm in Lancaster, SC,  less than 30 miles from our home. We toured the farm a little over a year ago and fell in love with the place. What’s extra-special about this farm is that sheep (and other animals) are raised here, and when the time is right, the sheep are, well, you know.

When we first visited Fox Trot Farm in 2019, we were warmly greeted by owners Debbie and Bob Burgess. I wrote and posted a story about it. In it, Debbie shared her delicious recipe for lamb shanks. 

Much to our disappointment, lamb wasn’t available for purchase that day.

So, earlier this week, when Debbie posted on the farm's FB page that lamb was packaged and ready for purchase, I immediately placed an order for 4 lamb shanks and 2 lbs. of ground lamb, and made our appointment for a safely-distanced pick-up.

Our lamb shanks and ground lamb purchase from Fox Trot Farm

Doug and I have made lamb shanks before and posted the recipe on our website- our recipe even showed up in The Armenian Mirror-Spectator

When we're ready to cook the shanks, we’ll feel good knowing that we're using American lamb raised by people we know! 

Not many people are fortunate enough to have a farm like this - practically at their doorstep!

What will we make with the ground lamb? Losh Kebab, Kufteh, Lule Kebab ... the sky's the limit!

Armenian Lamb Shanks
Our recipe for Armenian Lamb Shanks


4 meaty lamb shanks, trim off fat

1 large onion, coarsely chopped

4 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

3-4 garlic cloves, peeled and coarsely chopped

3-4 tablespoons olive oil

3 bay leaves

3 to 4 cups homemade lamb broth (water or low-sodium beef broth may be used)

Salt and pepper


Day 1: Parboil shanks in a large pot of lightly salted water for about 2 hours. The water should almost cover the shanks. By doing this, the cooking time is cut down on serving day, and you’ll end up with a large bowl of lamb broth for future recipes – soup, lamb and string bean stew, or whatever you are inspired to prepare.

Note: Cool the broth and place it in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, skim off any fat that rises to the top and discard. Use some of the broth to prepare the shanks; the remaining broth can be stored in containers and placed in the freezer for future recipes.

Day 2 – Serving Day:

Sauté the onions, carrots, celery and garlic in olive oil in a pot large enough to hold the shanks, vegetables and broth. Add the shanks, bay leaves, broth and seasonings to taste.

Place a cover on the pot in a tilted position; bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to simmer. Simmer shanks for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Check periodically to ensure there is still enough liquid to prevent burning. Adjust seasonings, if necessary.

Remove bay leaves. Once done, the tender, falling-off-the-bone lamb, can be served in individual bowls over a bed of buttered noodles with plenty of vegetables and cooking liquid from the pot. Armenian rice or bulgur pilaf would be an ideal accompaniment in place of the noodles.

Crusty bread or garlic bread (for dipping into the juices) and a tossed green salad make for a very satisfying and traditional lamb shank dinner.

Recipe option: Instead of using lamb broth, add 1/2 to 1 cup red wine depending on the number of lamb shanks. Then add a 15 oz. can of diced or crushed tomatoes with liquid (and additional liquid, if necessary) and dried herbs, such as oregano and thyme, depending on the amount of meat. Continue to cook as mentioned above for day 2.

What to do with Leftover Meat from the Shanks:

Larger leftover meat pieces may be shredded and added to a string bean stew, while smaller bits of leftovers may be turned into a breakfast hash with an egg on top.

Friday, September 4, 2020

“The Prince of Wentworth Street”, Musa Dagh, and a recipe for Basstuk – or Bastekh (Fruit Juice Pudding)

I just finished reading a book called “The Prince of Wentworth Street” by John Christie. Doug read it first, then passed it along to me. This book came highly recommended by our friend, Bonnie Gross, who knew the author when they worked together at the Sun Sentinel newspaper in Fort Lauderdale back in the day.

See the source image                                                            Paperback Stories My Father Never Finished Telling Me : Living with the Armenian Legacy of Loss and Silence Book

Just as Doug’s memoir, “Stories My Father Never Finished Telling Me” explained how Doug grew up in America ‘living with the Armenian legacy of loss and silence,' John Christie’s book follows a similar (yet different) theme: "An American boyhood in the shadow of a genocide."

I asked Doug why he thought I’d be interested in reading this and he said, “Not only is it interesting, but John is half Armenian, and his maternal grandmother came from Musa Dagh – the same region as your maternal grandmother!”

Upon hearing this, I became intrigued.

(The Armenian Weekly ran a review about this book last May.) 

As I began to read, I learned that the author’s Armenian grandmother, Gulenia Hovsepian Banaian, was born in 1899, the same year as my grandmother, and that they lived in nearby villages. His most-likely came from Bitias, and mine lived in Haji Habibli.

I immediately felt a strong connection with John Christie.

I then recalled another family from Bitias,  the Magzanians—Alberta, Anna, and Louisa— who have written a cookbook, “The Recipes of Musa Dagh”.

The Magzanian's cookbook
I felt it necessary to introduce myself – and – the Magzanian’s cookbook to Mr. Christie, and so I did. Their cookbook’s chapters relating to the region, the Magzanian family’s history, and recipes of the region should be very meaningful to him.

In the past, I’ve posted some of my grandmother’s recipes – Banerov Hatz (Banderoom Hootz), Sarma Gurgood, Red Pepper Paste, and a very unique recipe from Musa Dagh called Goulougoos.

I’m happy to report that the author and I are now good friends. 

Thank you for sharing your story, John!

As a bonus, here is a very easy dessert from the Magzanian’s collection of Musa Daghsi recipes …

Apricot Nectar Pudding
Basstuk – or Bastekh (Fruit Juice Pudding)

Serves 4


2 heaping Tbsp. cornstarch

2 cups grape juice or apricot nectar

Sugar, optional (depending on the juice's or nectar’s sweetness/ tartness)

For Garnish: 3/4 cup ground or chopped walnuts (pecans, almonds, or pistachios may be substituted)


Place cornstarch in a cup. Add a few spoons of juice or nectar and stir until smooth.

Heat the remaining juice over medium heat. Whisk-in sugar to suit your taste, if using. Gradually add the cornstarch mixture, stirring constantly, until pudding comes to a boil and begins to thicken. (This will only take a few minutes.)

Simmer a few more minutes. Remove from heat and pour pudding into small serving bowls. It will continue to thicken as it rests or chills.

Serve pudding at room temperature or chilled.

Garnish with nuts just before serving.